How to sew knitwear?
When sewing knitwear, you need to solve two opposite tasks: how to sew knitwear, so as not to stretch the seams and, at the same time, make the seams elastic.
Why use a knitting needle
First of all, it is necessary to use a specialneedle for knitwear, which has a rounded tip and does not pierce the fibers of the fabric at the line, but pushes them apart. Now such needles can be bought at any fabric store and sewing accessories. This is the most important point, since sewing a knitwear on a typewriter with a normal needle is strictly forbidden - small holes may come out, from which the loops of fabric loosen.
How to make elastic seams
Of course, it is best to sew knitwear on a modern typewriter, in the arsenal of which there are functions of a knitted suture, overlock or pseudo-overlock program.
To owners of old machines we suggest to adopt a few simple tricks that give a beautiful and durable elastic seam:
- small stitch with a long stitch of 1 mm,
- a small zigzag stitch with a stitch length of 3 mm and a width of 1 mm,
- the usual line, which you need to stretch slightly with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand.
Ways to strengthen the seams
The second, no less important, task is to make sure that the seams are not stretched. For this, when stitching, you need to strengthen them. This is especially necessary when carrying out shoulder seams and processing the neck.
There are several ways for this:
- when sewing, place a strip under the fabricpaper. You can use newsprint, cut off from the edge of the newspaper, in a place where there is no font, so as not to stain the thing, toilet paper or paper towels. Paper for the printer is not suitable - it is very dense and the needle is quickly dying about it.
- Starch the place of grinding. The easiest way is to make it with a cotton swab or a brush. Wet the seam with a starch solution, allow to dry and then scribble.
- lay a special water-soluble film on the bottom and top of the seam (sold in sewing shops).
- to lay under a seam from the back a thin braid. This method is suitable for shoulder seams.
Also, you can not ignore the processing of the bottom of the product and the neck.
Throat and bottom processing
The most accurate and inconspicuous way of filing -it's manually "goat". But this option is laborious and suitable for plodding people. It is easier to sew the bottom with a double seam. It can be made an ordinary stitch by laying the seams parallel to each other at a distance of 5-7 mm, taking into account the recommendations for an elastic joint or making a seam with a special double needle (also necessarily knitted). Two threads from different coils are threaded on top of it, for this, on most machines, two fasteners are provided, and one thread, as usual, from the bottom. As a result, two parallel lines are obtained on the front side, and a zigzag line from the back side.
The throat is often treated with a piping,we cover or hemmed in the same way as the bottom of the product, pre-reinforced the seam with a thin non-woven fleece, glue tape or by laying along the edge of the reinforcement stitch. The method of processing the neck is selected depending on its type and size. For wide necks it is recommended to sew a thin tape along the back from the wrong side. It will not allow things to stretch out in one of the most vulnerable places, neither during socking nor when washing.
Please note that in order to simplify the work withknitted and stretch fabrics, it is recommended that they be pre-weighed to each other. This prevents uneven grinding when the upper fabric slides over the bottom. We wish you to wear stylish and beautiful clothes created by yourself!